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UGreen Solutions

Heritage homes, renovated without losing what makes them worth it

Victorian and Edwardian homes across Melbourne's inner and eastern suburbs. Feature restoration from $18k, period kitchen and bath from $55k, full terrace renovations from $150k. Heritage overlay work included.

  • Heritage overlay planning permits managed end to end
  • Cornice, skirting and architrave profiles matched to original
  • Modern services hidden behind period-correct finishes

Price at a glance

  • Feature Restoration 3–6 weeks $18k–$40k
  • Period Kitchen & Bath 8–14 weeks $55k–$110k
  • Full Terrace Renovation 24–40 weeks $150k–$350k

Indicative ranges. Your fixed price is confirmed in writing after a free site visit.

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Packages

Three ways to do it

Heritage work runs 15–30% above equivalent standard renovation. That premium is real — matched materials, specialist trades and a longer approval path — and we show it as a line item rather than burying it in the rate.

Feature Restoration

Bring back the ceilings, cornices, skirtings and fireplaces.

$18k–$40k
Indicative — fixed after site visit

3–6 weeks on site

Included

  • Ornate cornice and ceiling rose repair or replacement
  • Matched skirting, architrave and picture rail profiles
  • Fireplace and mantelpiece restoration
  • Original door and hardware refurbishment
  • Lath-and-plaster repair with matched finishes
  • Heritage-appropriate paint colours and finishes

Not included

  • Kitchen or bathroom works
  • Structural repairs or restumping
  • Planning permit (usually not needed for internal-only work)
Get a fixed price for the Heritage Home Renovation Feature Restoration package
Most chosen

Period Kitchen & Bath

Modern function behind a facade that still reads as original.

$55k–$110k
Indicative — fixed after site visit

8–14 weeks on site

Included

  • Full kitchen and one bathroom, heritage-sympathetic
  • Shaker or period-profile joinery, custom made
  • Rewiring and replumbing to current standards
  • Feature restoration in the affected rooms
  • Planning permit application where a heritage overlay applies
  • Heritage consultant liaison and council correspondence

Not included

  • Rear extension or footprint changes
  • Restumping or underpinning
  • Roof replacement
Get a fixed price for the Heritage Home Renovation Period Kitchen & Bath package

Full Terrace Renovation

Whole-house restoration and modernisation, front to back.

$150k–$350k
Indicative — fixed after site visit

24–40 weeks on site

Included

  • Whole-house rewire, replumb and reroof as required
  • Kitchen, bathrooms and laundry throughout
  • Full feature restoration to every original room
  • Restumping and structural rectification
  • Planning permit, heritage consultant and full documentation
  • Domestic building insurance and fixed-price contract
  • Dedicated project manager and weekly client walkthroughs

Not included

  • Landscaping
  • Furniture and styling
  • Second-storey addition
Get a fixed price for the Heritage Home Renovation Full Terrace Renovation package

Common add-ons

Priced separately so you can see exactly what each one costs.

  • Restumping +$18k
  • Heritage consultant report +$3,500
  • Leadlight restoration +$4,200
  • Verandah and lacework restoration +$16k

What a heritage overlay actually controls

A heritage overlay is a planning control on your title. It does not mean you cannot renovate, and it does not mean your interior is frozen. What it means, in practice, is that changes visible from the street are assessed for their effect on the streetscape.

Internal work in most overlay properties needs no planning permit at all. You can rip out a 1990s kitchen, open up the rear, and modernise every service without going near council — provided you aren’t touching the facade or the roofline as seen from the public realm.

What does need a planning permit: facade changes, front fence replacement, demolition of any part visible from the street, extensions that rise above the existing roofline, and window replacements on the front elevation.

Allow three to six months for a heritage planning permit. Complex applications, or any that end up at VCAT, run considerably longer. We start the application early and run design development in parallel, so the approval clock isn’t waiting on drawings.

Why it costs more

Matched materials cost more than modern equivalents. Running a replacement cornice to match a 1890s profile means a specialist mould, not a length from a trade centre. Solid timber sash windows repaired properly take a joiner, not a window installer. Lath-and-plaster repair is a different trade to plasterboard.

Specialist trades are also scarcer, so they cost more and book further out. And the approval path adds time, which adds preliminaries.

The premium is real, and it’s worth being honest about it up front. It’s also why heritage renovations tend to hold value — the things that make them expensive are the things that make them irreplaceable.

What we restore rather than replace

Ornate cornices and ceiling roses. Baltic pine floorboards under three layers of carpet and vinyl. Original four-panel doors with their brass furniture. Fireplaces that were boarded up in the seventies. Leadlight that’s cracked but entirely repairable.

The default in a lot of renovation work is to rip it out because rip-out is faster. Our default is the opposite. If something original can be saved, saving it is almost always the better outcome, and often the cheaper one.

Modern comfort behind a period face

Heritage homes are typically cold, poorly insulated and under-serviced. None of that is worth preserving. We rewire, replumb, insulate and add heating and cooling — routed so that none of it shows. Ducting through floor cavities, services chased into non-original walls, switches and outlets placed where they read as deliberate.

You get a house that performs like a new one and looks like the one you bought.

Questions

Heritage Home Renovation FAQs

What does a heritage overlay actually stop me doing?

Far less than most people assume. A heritage overlay is a planning control concerned mainly with what’s visible from the street.

Generally no planning permit needed: internal alterations, a new kitchen or bathroom, rewiring and replumbing, rear works not visible from the street, and routine maintenance in the same materials.

Planning permit required: changes to the facade, demolition of anything visible from the street, front fence replacement, extensions that rise above the existing roofline, window replacement on the front elevation, and often painting a previously unpainted brick facade.

Controls vary by council and by the specific overlay schedule on your property, so the first step is always checking what applies to your address. We do that before design starts.

How long does a heritage planning permit take?

Three to six months is typical for a heritage overlay planning permit in Melbourne. Complex applications take longer, and anything that ends up at VCAT can run past twelve months.

That’s planning permit time, and it comes before the building permit and before any construction. It’s the single most underestimated part of a heritage project timeline.

We lodge early and run design development in parallel so the clock isn’t waiting on drawings, and we handle council correspondence and any requests for further information directly.

Why does heritage renovation cost more?

Heritage work typically runs 15–30% above an equivalent standard renovation, and we show that as a line item rather than burying it in the rate.

Three things drive it. Matched materials — running a replacement cornice to match an 1890s profile means commissioning a mould, not buying a length. Specialist trades — lath-and-plaster repair, sash window joinery and leadlight restoration are separate trades from their modern equivalents, scarcer and booked further out. The approval path — three to six months of planning permit adds preliminaries and holding costs.

The premium buys the thing that makes the house worth owning. It’s also why heritage properties tend to hold value: what makes them expensive to renovate is what makes them impossible to replicate.

Can I have modern heating, insulation and wiring in a heritage home?

Yes, and you should. Heritage homes are typically cold, poorly insulated and seriously under-serviced — none of which is worth preserving.

We rewire, replumb, insulate and add heating and cooling, routed so none of it shows. Ducting runs through floor and roof cavities, services get chased into non-original walls where possible, and switches and outlets are placed so they read as deliberate rather than apologetic.

Internal servicing work in an overlay property almost never needs a planning permit, because none of it is visible from the street.

Should original features be restored or replaced?

Restored, nearly always — and it’s often cheaper than people expect.

Baltic pine floorboards under carpet usually sand back beautifully. Boarded-up fireplaces are generally intact behind the board. Four-panel doors with a century of paint strip back to something no modern door matches. Cracked leadlight is repairable by a specialist for a fraction of replacement.

Replacement becomes the right answer when the original is structurally gone — rotted timber, a cornice destroyed in a previous renovation, windows beyond repair. Then we match the profile rather than substituting a modern equivalent that reads wrong.

The industry default is to rip out because rip-out is fast. Ours is the opposite.

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